Hi Everyone,
When we wrote last we were just leaving Cape Town bound for Trinidad. We had a great trip, just over 39 days at sea with two stops—each for four days—at the islands of St. Helena (UK) and Fernando de Noronha (Brazil). For the most part, it was an uneventful trip—the best kind. Here are a few things that stand out in our minds:
Seguaro did very well. He hadn't sailed since he was a few months old, so we were very concerned—prepared—even, to throw in the towel if he couldn't handle the boat motion or was just plain miserable. We left Cape Town on a stiff southwester, with big beam seas, and while Josh was a bit green, Seguaro could watch Curious George videos and swing around the boat like his hero. He apparently inherited his Mom's stomach. The better part of most days was spent doing crafts, emptying out Dad's tools, reading kid's books, baking snacks, etc. Basically, he took to the whole thing better than we ever imagined—and we were so relieved. He never did appreciate it when both parents had to go out and do sail changes—not only would he be alone, but the sounds of sails flapping, winches turning and parents swearing always freaked him out.
Coming into port was always a good time for him. He would help hoist the yellow quarantine flag, (the "new people" flag) and enjoy the ice cream and kiddos we had promised would be waiting for him.
Every morning Suzy would wet down the teak and Seguaro would follow her around and collect all the flying fish that littered the deck, tossing them back into "Momma Ocean". It was his chore and he was proud to do it.
Light airs were a bit of a problem—we did probably half of the first leg under spinnaker. Sometimes winds were light and steady enough, and the squalls mild enough, to tempt us into leaving it up at night (mistake). Even with Josh sleeping in the cockpit and looking about every 15 minutes, a squall overtook us and blew it clean in two. I suppose that's better than a boat we met in St. Helena who got caught the same way but instead of parting, his spinnaker held until his boat was completely on its side and water was flooding in the portholes.
St. Helena was a throw-back kind of place: all very clean and British, pastel colored buildings, tea shops, etc., and so removed from the world—no airport, and only a (decreasing) population of about 4000. Steep-to and volcanic, with lush valleys and high plateaus and the population being blended English, black and Asian (the latter two groups having been brought as labor in previous centuries) that spoke in a sort of pigeon English w/cockney accent. Incredibly friendly and accommodating, the people seemed to really appreciate being able to live in a remote, completely clean and crime-free corner of the world—although much debate was going on about the British Government's plans to build an airport and gradually curtail the subsidies that keep the place going. We enjoyed a day of hiking with a single-hander fellow. Another day we joined a local family on a picnic at a cricket match. Our favorite was eating curry in the "Castle Gardens"—with a fountain and grass for Seguaro to run around on. The damp, green scent was heavenly after all the days at sea.
We celebrated Seguaro's 2nd and Suzy's 32nd birthdays underway. Low key, obviously, but highlighted by cakes covered in melted Cadbury bars—Seguaro's topped with a tractor carved out of chocolate and caramel. We don't feel too bad giving him that kind of stuff on occasion since the little guy only eats about three bites and is full.
Some nice fish were caught—mahi, tuna & wahoo. Too much, in fact and Josh was told to put the gear away. It's funny how when starting out on a trip we're never interested in catching fish, but later on we actually sail (way) out of our way to troll across sea mounts and around atolls. Protein deficiency? On the subject of deficiencies—Josh's gums began getting sore when flossing—cured quick enough with vitamin C pills.
The Brazilian island of Fernando de Noronha was beautiful, but very hot and very, very expensive. Just to anchor in the bay we were whacked for $140.00/day! We know the dollar is getting weak, but that's insane. We did rent a buggy and Josh got to surf each day—one spot in particular is known as the Brazilian Pipeline and is a beautiful, sand bottom peak that really heaves. Other than the waves, the best thing about the place was this drink made from crushed, frozen acai (ahh-sigh-ee) berry and banana paste and sprinkled with toasted oats. It was even better than it sounds.
At 4 degrees south of the equator, we anticipated the southeast trades to continue for awhile. But on leaving, we basically found ourselves in doldrums conditions which lasted until we found the northeast trades at 2 degrees north—a bit sketchy as we were down to 35 gallons of fuel with 1600 miles to go. For days we would work the squalls for a push, making as little as 70 miles a day and constantly changing the sails to keep the boat heading (drifting) due north. Suela glided across the equator at 0130 in the morning after 5 years in the Southern Hemisphere. When the first puffs of breeze began to fill in, a trace of chill could be felt—serving notice that it was winter and we'd soon be wearing clothes.
Although the "rhumb-line" distance was 5400 nautical miles, with all the zigzags the trip ended up being just about 6000 (not those Zigzags). After clearing in at the lush cove of Chagauramas Bay, Trinidad, we enjoyed our first freshwater showers in two months, not to mention a sit-down feast at an Italian restaurant. You would have thought we were ordering for six—and all that followed by a full night's sleep. It's good to go cruising from time to time if nothing more than to be reminded to really appreciate the little things (while having endless time to look around and ponder the big things).
We're flying back to the states tomorrow and hope to see some of you before Josh rejoins his ship in Brazil and Suzy goes . . . wherever she likes. Next go-round we'll aim for the canal and spend time enjoying the Pacific coasts of Panama and Costa Rica.
Take Care,
Josh, Suzy & Seguaro
Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths.
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